Why Fermentation Length Matters for Ceremonial Cacao

Why Fermentation Length Matters for Ceremonial Cacao

(Published 1/16/2024. Last updated 3/6/2026)

Most people have heard of or tasted fermented foods. But fewer people know that fermentation is an important part of making most cacao and chocolate.

The role that fermentation plays is different than in foods like kimchi. For example, chocolate doesn't have a "pickled" flavor.

It's not really the cacao seeds (a.k.a. "beans") that are fermenting, but the white pulp that grows between the seeds and the inside of the cacao pod.

This pulp is actually the fruit of the cacao tree! It is slightly sweet and tangy, and when it's exposed to air, fermentation naturally begins.

It probably first happened when a bird or other animal broke open a pod while it was still on the tree. (The pods don't fall on their own, so it's different than an apple tree.)

Now there are many ways to intentionally handle cacao fermentation. Just like with everything else about cacao, there's no single "right" way to ferment.

Historically, people most likely used the "heap" method, where the seeds and pulp are simply laid in a pile on top of the large leaves of the banana tree or "maxan" (pronounced Mah-shan) plant, and then covered by more leaves.

Now the most common traditional practice is to empty the seeds and pulp into wooden crates that have been lined with similar large leaves.

The seeds are stirred daily and go through both aerobic (oxygen-driven) and anaerobic processes. The seeds warm up due to the chemical reactions. At this time the seeds take on a subtle vinegar smell due to the fermentation.

Yet another way to ferment is to enclose the pulp and seeds in costal bags and leave them to sit for the desired length of time. This is how El Grano de Oro cacao is usually fermented.

Fermentation is important for a few reasons:

1) It stops the seeds from germinating, which would otherwise lead to it sprouting in an attempt to grow a baby cacao tree.

2) It breaks down the tannins that create the sharper bitterness of raw cacao.

3) It has a huge impact on the eventual flavor and aroma of the finished cacao.

This is why chocolate-makers are very specific about the manner and length of time that cacao is fermented if they're going to use it as a source.

At Soul Lift Cacao, we don't prefer a specific fermentation length in all cases. We see it as more of a way of bringing out the full character o a cacao variety, so therefore the ideal length is unique to each origin. We've tasted cacao from the same farm that was fermented for different lengths of time and noticed a surprising difference.

In general, a shorter fermentation length will result in a simpler flavor profile, while a longer fermentation results in a more complex profile with more going on!

In Mexico, cacao lavado is more common. That is "washed" cacao that is unfermented, just rinsed and then put out to dry.

It could be because cacao is so often part of the culinary arts in Mexico, so a simpler profile is preferred in order to blend with other flavors. But if a family doesn't have to wait for fermentation, it also means that a family can use or sell cacao faster.

Mitla cacao is an interesting example in our lineup, with is a 50/50 blend of 5-day-fermented cacao and unfermented cacao.

The fermentation lengths are listed on the product page and front label of each pure cacao variety we carry.

And to help you examine all the info, we also made this chart that shows how long each type of cacao is fermented. Note that some of these are average lengths, because a farm might choose to ferment for a different length depending on whether it's the dry or wet season.

If you have more questions about our cacao, please Contact Us and we'll be happy to help!